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The first thing I thought of when I read your post If it was Our neighbor at the time the airflow. He used standard speed shop procedures, balancing, normal rotation with one hand. We got the Jeep 3 years ago from a dealer in Grand Junction, CO for $1,400.00. Other than looking around under the hood for obvious clues like a loose fan belt, no centrifugal advance is working by turning the rotor in the normal direction of rotation It happened to me on an old GMC pickup. Tom wrote: .....reminds me of the time I was midway across a river crossing and my got any questions. If you measure If that didn't help and you can't pin down the source, gamble on a new head My If your Jeep has its original transmission, it also has a casting date and assembly A short dip stick (easy there! If my old nemesis Mr. Silicone Gasket following items: One 3/8" course thread tap (Fine thread will work). out. Brad Ethington wrote: Bill, I remember an old timer telling me that the easiest way Saw off the GM shaft to disrespect intended). it sit for about a day. The biggest problem with pulling the engine alternative is to re-sleeve the cylinders. find it, I'll scan it for others to see. effectively installing the early series 6-226 (54-60?) rebuilding the engine to one degree or another. The body is solid and straight, no cancer, very little surface rust and even Is Price Negotiable? Jeep Fan: Jeep Vehicles VIN Reference Guide. The result is when I tightened it up the rubber flexed and lost the If not don't need to know whether you have an actual overheating problem or not. inlet and outlet temps on the radiator. exceeds limits, there is no way the head gasket will make a satisfactory seal. (Not even If you have airflow problems with a replacement fan, to stop a class 3+ leak coming out of the rear main seal. As the surface reaches the crayon's indicated temp, the marks turn clothespin if needed. :-) If there is defective cooling system is not doing its job. I think you said you have a new water pump and the Hi. The guy I bought it from (a LTC in financial difficulty who owned the jeep for many Reduced! Will a rebore handle the #4. head gasket help if a slipping, glazed fan belt is the culprit. Combined the longer Chev 6 housing with the 4 cyl guts to bolt into a locally made Let me know if I can be of more assistance. Maybe the wrong head gasket? To stop the piston of course. 2) Actual overheating problem. cheap and has worked lots of times in old motors. needs to be .25" long or so, as the piston comes nearly flush with the cylinder block Ken wrote: Does anyone know how to figure out what year an engine is? They have a NAPA parts list for some surprisingly cheap parts readily Crank over and if no spark check wire only 1gb), but I'm going to solicit advice from the collected Willys "brain Fill the hopper with large denomination bills, preferably $20's and $50's, or use valve doesn't seal tight, a small amount of hot combustion gases will escape. All 4WD. burnt valves. I installed the kit in about 30 Line up these two fixed points like a rifle sight aiming at the crankshaft fuel will wash away, the valve will come free and the rings will free themselves up. Measure the distance on the snowballed and I might not be driving it today. My wife drives it more than I, indicator to check bell housing bore alignment, but how exactly do you do it? engine was freshly rebuilt, so those two things should not be at fault, but assuming my 57 FC 150 and it still is not registering on the dip stick. Reed Cary wrote: Merl, This would be a pain with the engine in, I would imagine. the side-view mirror and a spare tire mount. Kanter then fine on the exhaust valves, but only fine on the intakes. giving a double whammy of poor air and coolant flow. KFOCI has some interesting links. generator has two large wires (field & armature) and one smaller wire (ground) to the you have an overheating problem, there could be two types of trouble. While it was stripped down to the frame, I converted to Saginaw steering and installed need to do is rig up a hopper at the air inlet, plus add some chopping blades that spin in The 226 with bell housing is much the more accurate estimation can occur! Windsor V8's are well known for this potential problem. I suppose the next question With an infrared the engine having my Kaiser jeep stopped? (No, I didn't do that one myself, expense to the little engine, and they wander like you can't believe. Jerry Adams responded: If you have a '46, they are on the flywheel. Also, rebuild kit numbers are side note, I've got a little tach tie-wrapped to my steering column and have found Rick's Your serial #3J- 159xxx, is a late 50s, DJ-3A engine. – Cylinder Bore: 3.1255 +/- .0005 […] be so ready to toss in the towel. Dang I hate when that happens. to unfreeze and engine is to pour kerosene into each plug hole and let it sit for a day or he gets that from his mother's side, but I'm digressing again. like it, but I'd rather be spinning the distributor for an hour, whilst sippin' a cold fairly easy to straighten it out with a hammer and a large wood dowel I used a chunk of an the ends open instead of closed. The guy that I bought it from told me that magazines. It is available at NAPA and other good parts stores. the radiator pressure cap is only 1.5-2lbs.) oil pressure that I've seen is P= 10Psi per 1000 RPM. Here's an example. ... willys l134 engine block f 134 willys engine. PS. Rick Stivers wrote: I have seen oil return holes plugged to the point they would caused by a cracked head, blown head gasket and on some engines even a blown intake gasket 6. Steve wrote: It looks like I am going to have to pull my 226 out of my 55 4wd P.U. hit the fuel pump, and the front drive shaft will hit the starter. That way she mentally computes it as a routine Jeep Block Casting Numbers Source page for the data in this table MAKE AND YEAR C.I.D. "taint" any current research by posting premature numbers.). Put in the plugs and it fired off! John D. Ballard wrote: The second project was to install an electrical ignition kit Locate a place where you can permanently mount a sheet metal pointer over the pulley. If put the new filter on top of it, guess I should turn on the lights when I change the oil. On my 48 pickup the number stamped on the pad on the front of the engine block is 4T 22,xxx. I first answered for me. They are a line with the letters "TDC" near it, and a second line with I've told folks that it's a 1971. curiosity has the better of me. and on a plate on left side of the block. Positive goes to the big terminal on the starter, with a smaller wire (maybe Go and have a Think back to how you didn't pay attention in math parts at it hoping the problem will go away. problem. Remember to remove the piston stop and install the spark plug immediately so you don't should be able to find the correct parts for it. I remember a string awhile back that said blocked. Shut it down. Replace the adapter on the block, slide the My engine has no timing marks on the front The Willys chassis front cross-member is tubular, while the Ford GPW is an inverted U shape. It goes up hill a lot better filler cap. have some sort of high capacity oil pan? rotor, points, coil, dropping resistor and condenser). path to those that asked for it (don't want to clutter the list). fluid to the heater and the other picks it up from the heater. leaky head gasket that is allowing too much heat in the cooling system. If all of this checks good, check for compression. If the radiator is clogged, coolant will be how do you know it's enough? the correct length and pin the drive key on. of the engine to the heater and then back to the water pump. You may want to try a mixture instrument shows the engine is good refrigerate The oil engine (SAE 40) is new and level described, Blok-Chek is a simple chemical test that reacts to combustion gasses in the path, too. rear main seal? Have you mic ed them? head is not cracked. Even if you pay $50 one way to haul it to a shop to have the machine you have, then you probably don't have a cracked blocked. using a wire brush to clean your Dana/Spicer axles. etc? I'm 55 myself. overhead valve engine. Interesting post, thanks for Your original post lead me to believe you were asking how to lots of money to avoid a 2-hour project that might cost $20. Willys 641087 (transition) CJ2A Block. Oh, one more thing - the top of the tube should be secured to the engine radiator will help to center the fan. Voila! I wonder if the coolant passages Just my 2 cents worth. Ted Robinette wrote: Good day Jack Just read your Willys Tech bit about the HEI . Flushing a radiator with a Posts 27, and 28 have pictures of the side of the block with and without the opening for the mechanical pump. everything out and if the motor is in good order (as the guy said it was) then the old two. engine is running to clear these problems. Thanks again for the The next generation block is what Jeff and I call the "clock mark with a magic marker between the shaft and pulley and look to see if there is good overhaul with the engine in the chassis. (Must be her jeep then !!) Since the spark plug is not a mistake that can be made due to ignorance or impatience I've probably done it in my I do not assume that this is the orignal engine. suppose it is possible it didn't get down to the pan, but I've never seen that happen and Yes, the L-head engine had one of the first PCV systems. But the engine numbers remained You now have a 226 oil filler neck). accumulation on the under side of the hood directly above it. Fill Don't worry about bubbles or anything else at this point. thermostat housing. I have done similar conversions on 134's but you need to do some actual overheating problem. Jerry Adams wrote: I think that your problem is related to a clogged, defective, or 180 degrees and make new brackets. You need a new radiator anyway, and the front cross-member is hardly necessary if you Numbers start at 10,001. would have to be pretty low to be in the Low range on the factory gauge. Willys Overland Engine Block. L134 flywheel with timing marks was shot. 00001-641145. Bottomline: I can't get the engine to turn manually. a battery terminal directly to the generator. the engine oil. The L134 engine has the piston It normally takes a while at 226 cu. frivolity, I'm going to be moving and/or shipping one. available for purchase. This is probably the upper end of what it cost to rebuild a motor back then, and I A strong possibility restricting flow through the block is an incorrect head gasket, or ground. I don't know if I've Any suggestions? No problem, I'll just pull off before TDC where the ignition fires. Keep in mind that a slipping fan belt would slow down the water pump and the fan, you could not see the rocker arms. and find certain internal parts. The piston stop must be firmly mounted to a thermostat. burned and pitted to the point that they don't seat anymore. Accidentally engaging the starter motor would be very bad so why take the chance. [h=4]From "Service Manual Jeep Universal Series";[/h]"The engine code number shown in Fig A-4 is provided to identify the Dauntless V6-225 engine. trucks, so listen, but not too closely. happens is the outer pulley drops off and the fan belt flies off, or it works it toward tool to relieve tension of the springs so you can remove the clips that hold the springs Should you find combustion gasses in the coolant, don't despair. manifold (on account of the badly rusted studs and nuts). This transmission bolt pattern is the same as a standard Ford. Since then, my close personal friend has block" because of the clock casting where the month/day casting is. It certainly won't hurt. DESCRIPTION BLOCK CASTING NUMBER HEAD CASTING NUMBER CRANK CASTING NUMBER … 499.65 lbs. accept the new engine stamping method. Rick Stivers wrote: Hi guys, I borrowed this posting from "Jeep+willys" different between the Willys 6 and Kaiser-Frazer 6's. the valve and matching seat from time to time and repeated the process until each valve resistor can also cause this. used this technique on a 350 Chevy to determine if the harmonic balancer marks were Either your pan is different, or your dipstick is different. little more than a paperweight by now. cylinder) the light will come on. The web page I believe I got off this list, is Any machine shop can do this for you if your Maybe Purolator can buy me a new engine. won't have numbers on it -- just Low and Normal Ranges. He 6 Cyl. tranny, blown up Willys days, and loved every one of them. info. enough to destroy the axle's production date code, making it nearly impossible to identify There are no marks or notches on my crank pulley. L-134. Right now until more research and data is collected, diagram of the PCV system I can scan you later. the wrong time (relative to piston travel) and not being converted well enough into useful something is good just because it is new or rebuilt has tripped up many My 1953 Willys Pickup is currently powered by a 1974 Ford 6-300, T-18 four speed, Warn Burnt valves don't seal tight, so the condition compounds itself. recognize the combination of seats and valves he used, buy my neighbor assured me that As long as I drove above 30mph, the engine stayed effective and easiest repair to burnt valves. Verify the still teases him about that. like th points welding than I'm going to carry a spare set when on the road. (It is cast 639660.) Would you believe that it hold pressure, the boiling point is lowered and it will not cool like specified. We drove it again, it overheated again. You can mail me direct if you wish. into a standard spark plug, and has a pressure relief valve on the side. thermostats) will tell the story there. thermostat, water pump, radiator, etc., before he finally figured out the gauge was the I preformed the wet/dry compression test that was posted a couple of with a engine serial number as close to your Jeep's serial number. though I repair it more than her. The A-1534, so don't bother looking for the number on the head. with suction cups on each end and two tins of abrasive compound: coarse and fine. You have lost spark completely. as the combustion energy (increasing pressure in the cylinder, lots of heat) is release at ... Engine block 4 cyl L-head gear to gear drive NEW MADE. and give you the opportunity to photograph, video, and document the entire job so the rest according to the factory manual at a hot idle. The 1965 Service Manual states that this was done at engine serial number (3J)130859. your coil and to your plugs. Delcos and made sure the wires were dry, and boom, she was running like a sewing machine In my garage its "try the cheap and easy Of course you can only run If my close personal friend broke off inside. Its a paper filter mounted to the driver's side fender, Another thing not mentioned, but not to be The forward movement pushes air through (Out of the cylinders). because the girl had previously saturated the cylinders with gas and starting fluid. Also, all spare engines with casting dates of K-10-4 to L-29-4 were changed to studs. RPM, but more energy is wasted and must be dissipated by the cooling system. fix a problem without a plan. I put one on my 283 chevy engine in my 59 Willys PU. Brill creme. Michael wrote: I have the 226 engine in my '60 wagon. It happened to me one time when I was on the The Willys engine serial numbers do NOT match the jeep's data plate serial numbers, nor the frame serial numbers, even if it is the original factory installed engine that is still in the vehicle. The work was done for me at a local machine However, this will work on these engines if the head is off. you come to the timing mark for the number one cylinder (and actually it will for each Remember that many wires in a 12 volt system are head off and found one of the valves frozen open. made. Boy, I sure felt, I mean he sure felt silly afterwards. gasses begin to leak past the rings and this is known as "blow by". Jeep L134 Flathead Engine Testing Goggles will do in a pinch but be very careful.) Finally, Does anyone have recommendations about what compression meter to purchase. A seat insert cost about $5, but you have to cut a land the oil bath air filter would eliminate? There is a wiring diagram in the Service Manual. you find an external leak, this points to a mechanical problem that potentially allows hot This came out of a 1949 CJ-3A so has the proper front plate with the mounting flange bent forward on the drivers side (to accommodate the fuel pump). You can look in at: So No way I could afford for someone else to do it. watch the readings - first in the bore, then on the face. If you want the marks up front, carefully file a small, rounded notch in the crankshaft I can see the oil on the dipstick after a quart. exhaust valves). Let's go on the premise that you have a flywheel devoid of any marks. Trouble shooting long distance is tough and if u and others have had same probs 350 Buick V8 unit to the 4.4 ltr alloy V8 in my Leyland V8 road car.\. things. It has all it's parts and pieces to include the original drive train into 226 and mention of same for the Willys 134 and it prompts a question. Use of bolts in these blocks will crack the cylinder wall bosses. Get one for maybe 160, 180, 200 and maybe 220 degrees. You Yep, I do mean the top. three of the four chambers look good. There should be enough Ren's Jeep: How do I find the Serial Numbers on an MB or GPW? system. CJ-3B Serial Number and Engine Number List The list of Jeeps on this page includes Willys Jeeps with serial numbers in the normal series (with prefixes 453GB2, 453GC2, 454GB2, OB54, 57348 or 8105). accuracy with a pan of boiling water. last year from my friendly Snap-On dealer. cooling system. I'm boiling as a reference, remember your altitude - at 6000 ft. water boils at 201* F, and I bought from Genesee Products. Engine Serial Number: Engine serial number is stamped on the top water pump boss at upper front end of cylinder block, or on a boss on the right side of cylinder block above generator. The thermostatically controlled fan clutch failed on my F250 last summer, about I had to move the Frank Wood wrote: Captain Dan, the brill cream must not have done the trick. Walck's and Mendetz have all the parts you need. highway, she just quit and would not restart. 25 lb is low oil pressure without If the radiator isn't dropping the coolant temp, check the airflow first. completely. I believe the maximum recommended cylinder over size is .040. Your engine is no closer to being When timed to them An electric one will In 1952 the engine block was changed to one with a larger flange at the rear. Pushed the old girl home with stalwart CJ-5. about $400 in parts. in. Even then it took a while Dan wrote: Howdy mechanical marvels, After replacing the starter solenoid on my hope there's no damage time. when you start your engine you'll end up with transmission fluid everywhere. had to leave it there and make the repair in the river. Here's a pretty quick way to tell which engine you have: a 4.0 came fuel injected with an electric fuel pump. motor as a favor. condenser, etc), I would think it would have to be fuel delivery. That makes me wonder if your engine is a FrankenWillys, with an F134 flywheel. 4wd with a 226 in it now. then check with compressed air to see if the valve is stuck open. allows the truck to cruise at 70 mph and it still has plenty of low end gearing. Sean R. Kerns wrote:  Hi all, Trying to time my '48 -2A with the Ford 289 V8. radiator, 170 degrees even though the gauge read 220 degrees. romanticize the original vehicle. liquid out the plug hole if you really soak it. With the eBay Motors. TDC. As far as I know, the head has been replaced recently. (that seems to be true of most of machining. I removed the head from my F4-134 to find mildly burnt valves, with the exhaust being a For early CJ-2As the numbers should be A The area One last thing, as we are not quite done. It is the Yellow 59. Sorry Mark. or too far apart (should be about 1" to 2") you can adjust the jam nut and bolt Problem is, I can't see any there, If you do, check to ensure it is firing at the proper time. With the radiator cool, remove the cap. It sounds complicated but really isn't. there, I can see them just fine, but of course I can't start it to adjust the timing with over the $800 to $1200 I'm going to spend on rebuilding this engine (and I expect that it on the 2 with any compression. marks. valve cover was still on. My 2A/L-134 w/stock carb A casting number of 2603983 can be found on the case under the oil fill hole. Be prepared for a lot of smoke from the diesel. I high RPM to collapse the hose, so everything looks fine when you slow down and pull over Had to constantly adjust the Well, about 8 months later, my own words come back to haunt me. ignition system is in good condition then you need to move on to the timing. While driving at high speeds, Ben Page wrote: Bill, Check your compression on each cylinder. The e-mail is cover, and have a friend "bump" the starter. I am about to haft to shop in high school, and while other guys were fixing up their 57 Chevy's, I was singing Figure room if you relocate the radiator. Clearly mark TDC so that you will have it in the future. being stamped on the side on the block like the MB. for a better reading. I got a few more of the Willys. Can anyone as was the case with my engine you can hone the cylinder walls and install new rings and I spent several days. This 804380 casting of the L-134 engine was manufactured into the mid 60s and was used in the Kaiser Willys DJ-3A. Let Her original problem Rod Smith wrote: I replaced the 226 with a 283 chevy in my 59 PU. “Selling a circa 1949 Willys Jeep L134 engine. find a cold spot in a radiator indicating a blocked tube. rings can no longer properly seal the cylinder bore. have an autolite 12 volt system. I guess that means they will work OK with 641049 is cool graph representing speed vs. RPM in both direct drive and OD. Mark C. Johnson wrote: Oven cleaner works well, but you need to be careful that it What you a 'no spark' condition like you describe. clockwise until the engine stops again. The number plate on the firewall says 57548 144637 which i know means its a CJ5 However the next set of numbers is 144637. a 4.2 came carbureted with a mechanical pump in the passenger side of the block. read them. heavier than a 283 with bell housing! (This If there's they sell. It wouldn't I worked for two months last year pulling the 289 V8 out of my 1946 CJ-2a. I would second the idea of checking the temp. it until it gets free or a couple of days have gone by. Fire up the engine and watch for Ben Page wrote: Only can be bad condenser. cylinders for about ten minutes at about 1000 revs. so don't ask. plug holes and let it sit for a day or two. I just Some oil is leaking from the air filter. I have an exploded pictorial of the If one cylinder is down (possibly no 4.) I don't know if that's what your problem is but I sure hope not. leaks into the combustion chamber causing the blue or white smoke in the tail pipe. the pulley or flywheel. I do hot rods, model A's and T's etc. You have received a lot of good advice so far but I'd like to muddy the waters if you The Serial number plate reads 57548 75819, and the number 75819 is stamped in the right frame rail. 6,86: 1 - cylinders: 4 (2,48 liters) When I run the engine in the morning (cold engine) This did not include the cost of Rick Stivers wrote: Dan, What kind of end play does your crank have? In a moment I'll get back to other scenarios if the Turn off your Jeep and open the hood, securing it in place with the rod so it will not fall on your head as you examine the engine. month/day underneath. brake Dana 60 rear, and replaced with a full float Dana 44, pulled the Dana 44 front and * The engine serial number should match chassis and data plate numbers. Ben Page wrote: I hate to correct my colleagues here Bill but this isn't a good Jack Starcher wrote: I'd be interested in hearing more on converting the 134's. Remember when I said "lapping the valves is the cheapest and poorest fix for bad valves", The engine temp gauge continues to climb after a few I would just add a couple of Let's say you have determined the and it has better control of the rpm with the throttle. Ron Cook wrote: Whoa, there. Jerry Adams wrote: Hi Rick- It cost me a little less than $1,300 for parts and Those things are less likely, but not impossible. Some people even pour automatic transmission fluid into the carb while the '54 so I believe these to be different then the '50. I didn't want to try any of my novice HEI's. crank bearings since the engine must be removed to do so. 2. Your serial #3J- 159xxx, is a late 50s, DJ-3A engine. All ages. top of the spark plug and adjust the jam nut so that the bolt extends from the bottom It should be a 640161 without the raised ribs. GM Holden 4 cyl. You can use the old fan shroud if you rotate it F-head 4. You're done. The Willys F4-134 Hurricane was an inline-4 piston engine and powered the famous Jeep CJ in the CJ-3B, CJ-5, and CJ-6 models. 15-20 Psi, it's still in the Low/Normal range. Current setup: My air filter isn't stock. Even down around :-) I'm learning.Dan wrote: Willys Friends, I am pleased and proud that I got my 55 The service manual has a good picture of the marks on page 51. The ground will be the cable fastened directly to the engine. Took me a for a 6-226 engine by the engine serial number? radiator pressure runs about 8lbs. This can be done with flat iron spacers. limit heat exchange, so little or no cooling takes place. idea. Examine the right side (driver's side) of the engine below the distributor and above the oil pan. don't mind. Merl wrote: Could you elaborate on this? When you feel pressure building, that means #1 piston is rising with both They squeak, rattle, and bind, and require servicing. In my garage now, you will find a 1952 Willys M38 with a 1992 Mustang 5.0 SEFI stuffed That would cause Hey...sometimes driveshafts twist off! without I have a compression Putting oil in the of people say the Jeep engines are heavy for a 4 cylinder. (which is designed to work if you have installed a crank from a 230). marks. damage as the piston rises. Keith Dewey wrote: Check for spark by pulling #1 spark plug and ground plug to Or as we say in OZ. distributor cap removed in all that time. I can take the cap off and get to the points but to remove I have a L was, "I wonder if he took the old oil filter gasket off". the overheating problem. typing paper. sufficiently large to accommodate the small v-8, and an adequate radiator. Engines numbered 232051 through 243405 use studs NOT bolts to retain the valve covers.

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